A Greek in Solomon Islands: from a Greek hotel to Hotomai Cultural Village

Travelling opens sliding doors to my past and future, one that usually involves my island home of Lesvos where I’ve lived. It’s paradise yet we have had challenges, wars in the past, balanced by great people, delicious food and a zest for life. These are points that can be applied to the paradise of islands found in the Pacific, oft neglected areas for travellers.

I was in Brisbane for a flight to the Pacific, but Solomon Airlines had other ideas. My flight was full, and I was bumped off along with some others including Roy and Debbie. My plan had been to spend a night on the majestic island of Mundu, then fly to the capital city of Honiara.

From Honiara

Being bumped meant no majestic island, the real reason for my trip. What I received in return was a business class flight (woohoo real cutlery) direct to Honiara, a stay in a Greek owned hotel and friendships.

The airline put us all up at Greek-owned Heritage Park Hotel, allowing me to become acquainted with my fellow stranded passengers.

Billy Cotsis with one of the locals at Hotomai Cultural Village

Debbie Harvey

One of the passengers being the charismatic, engaging and knowledgeable Debbie Harvey. Years ago, she moved to Australia residing on an island off Queensland, in management at a prestigious hotel. She reminds of the good people I find on Lesvos.

Debbie gave me a “crash-course” on Honiara as the driver brought us to the hotel. Honiara is essentially one road with traffic. Trucks ferry up to ten people at a time, and it just seems the city of 100,000 people has 100,001 cars and trucks!

From Honiara

Debbie spent some of her youth in the capital. The at times crawl of traffic meant Debbie was able to reminisce about her experiences and what’s changed.

Debbie explains:

“Honiara is the bustling gateway to the archipelago. Gritty charm and high-energy chaos that sits in stark contrast to the sleepy pace of the outer islands. Built along the coast of Guadalcanal, it’s the political and economic heartbeat. It isn’t a polished tourist hub; rather, it’s a living museum of WWII history, centred around the sprawling Central Market where vendors sell everything from betel nut to tuna. While the traffic can be intense and the infrastructure raw, Honiara offers an unfiltered look at modern Melanesian life, blending dusty colonial remnants with a resilient, fast-growing Pacific community.”

From Honiara.

Debbie was kind enough to provide insight to her home island, which sounds as cool as my own Skoutaros on Lesvos.

“My home island Nusa Roviana, located in the beautiful Roviana Lagoon. Nestled within the shimmering, 50km expanse of the Roviana Lagoon, the island of Nusa Roviana is a place where breathtaking natural beauty meets a hauntingly powerful history.”

Debbie describes how she, and visitors might be able to get there.

From Honiara.

“The experience begins with a scenic boat ride from Munda (where I was supposed to visit), gliding over a labyrinth of electric-blue waters, emerald mangroves, and coral islets that feel like a tropical dream. Yet, stepping into the island’s dense jungle reveals a deeper story; this was once the formidable seat of a headhunting empire, guarded by the legendary “Stone Dog” shrine and ancient stone fortifications that still stand today. For any traveller, the journey offers a profound contrast: one moment you are skimming across a vast, crystal-clear aquatic wilderness, and the next, you are standing before silent skull shrines on this historic island, feeling the lingering weight of a warrior past that refuses to be forgotten.”

From Honiara, which included the National Art Gallery.

Heritage Park Hotel had a Grecian effect on me as I abandoned plans to travel to other islands, opting to extend my stay at the hotel as staff kept me entertained at this Greek-owned hotel.

Don who works at the hotel indicated that a Greek had bought the hotel last century and fixed it up.

From Hotomai Cultural Village.

“This was the Governor-General’s residence. Mr George Constantine made some changes and opened it, becoming a hotel that makes people feel welcome. You will see that with staff, the setting and experiences of guests.” George also owns or has shares in other local businesses.

The Constantine family lives in Papua New Guinea, and when I was in Port Moresby people would tell me about the “Greek family.” As soon as anyone heard I was Greek, there was then an anecdote about the Greek family which employs thousands of people across the Pacific. The Constanine family are a third generation Greek-Cypriot-PNG family.

The Greek owned Heritage Park Hotel.

Hotomai Cultural Village

A nation of almost a million spread out over 1000 islands, and like Greece, they have an island way of life with tradition aplenty. It was that curiosity around tradition which attracted me to Hotomai Cultural Village with a way of life that melted my heart and fulfilled my soul. A magical place that understands peace, harmony, the earth and community.

Billy Cotsis being interviewed at Hotomai Cultural Village

Thanks to Christina and her awesome staff at Destination Solomons, I was able to secure a special visit to Hotomai Cultural Village, located half an hour inland from Honiara. We drove through old plantations, old Catholic Church missions, secluded settlements and forests, eventually following a dirt road that was struggling from recent heavy rain.

Hotomai Cultural Village: the locals demonstrating how they use the earth to sustain their way of life.

Hotomai Cultural Village is where tradition and sustainability along with the sense of community and belonging are a real part of their lifestyle. Resource sharing and peace are part of the ethos of the community. I loved being there, it reminded me of my life in a village on Lesvos.

Destination Solomons staff pulled up just outside the village. I was immediately surrounded by about 12 young boys who ran out of the bushes. Their loud warriors’ shout would have frightened even the Germans of WW2. An older warrior immediately appeared to “appease” the situation. He was joined by the Chief of the Village and they both formally and culturally welcomed me to the village. The boys and their adorable greeting made me smile no end. Everyone was dressed in traditional islander attire. The village has no electricity or modern trappings, everything you experience is a throw back to an ancient and peaceful past.

After this wonderful welcome, which I didn’t believe could be matched, the women and girls of the village welcomed me with their angelic voices. They sang many traditional songs. I can feel the goosebumps as I visualise the songs once again. This welcome was just as awesome as the young warriors greeting.

Jacinta Vagha, from the village and staff from Destination Solomons took me on a walking tour. Jacinta ensured I understood aspects of the way of life, the role each person plays in the community and how they care and nurture the land around them which in turns provides them with food, tools and the means to live.

I was shown how food is grown and procured, how all the women and men have a role with ensuring the food is grown, harvested and used. I learnt how the village uses every element of nature to make bags, clothes and dwellings. I was shown how to light a fire, how to cook and was invited to eat with Jacinta and some of the others.

From Hotomai Cultural Village.

Jacinta explained how the village is proud to engage with the outside world. I was shown a peace home where anyone who is in a conflict, perhaps two friends or two families, must stay in the dwelling until it is resolved. There is a special home for women who may have lost a husband, the Chief ensures that they are looked after in their time of grief.

I appreciate the environment and our earth, yet here in Hotomai it was reinforced by Jacinta and the village why we need to love our planet and look after Mother Nature.

From Hotomai Cultural Village

Honiara was similarly kind to me. Outside the city I discovered the ruins of tanks thanks to Destination Solomons and one can find evidence of the battles fought here in 1942 and 1943 between our brave Aussies and Allies against Imperial Japanese forces. Solomon Islands have been occupied by various colonial powers, with the British and Germans just some in a long list of occupiers. These are Melanisians, yes the term comes from two Greek words.

Honiara is a simple place with numerous tailored hotels that sit by the Pacific. Local music is nice for the ears and a visit to one of the galleries is a must.

While I missed seeing the paradise I had come for, I met people, explored lands that helped my inner peace and made me feel like I was on Lesvos. Solomon Islands offers plenty, and for someone like me, it offered peace and friendship thanks to people like Debbie and Hotomai.

Aussie support for Solomon Islands.

Mini docos: A Greek in Solomon Islands/Honiara, part one! Thanks everyone especially Debbie!

A Greek in Solomon Islands P2: Hotomai Cultural Village & Honiara

*Billy Cotsis is the author of ‘1453: Constantinople & the Immortal Rulers’